1964 Ford Mustang
1964 Ford Mustang questions and answers
Learn more about the 1964 Ford Mustang
Q: what is the price on a 1964 ford mustang in mint condition?
says 1964.5 on the title
A: In all honesty, like all vintage vehicles, it's worth what ever the seller is willing to sell it for and the buyer is willing to pay for it.
Original equipment and condition is everything. An original 260 V8 in a 1964 1/2, for instance, will immediately up the ante.
Q: how much would a 1964 Ford Mustang cost?
i'm getting my first car in 2 years, and i really don't know anything about cars. after some looking around the 64 ford mustang started to grow on me.. will it be expensive? do you think the price would change in 2 years? thank you
A: Price Guide for Basic Mustang
V8 engine, automatic transmission
1964 1/2- 1968 Model Years Base Price #3 Condition #2 Condition
Coupe
$7000-$9,000
$12,500-$16,000
Convertible
$18,000-$22,500
$24,000-$28,500
Fastback
$18,000-$22,500
$24,000-$30,500
Q: Need help on what to look for in a 1964 Ford Mustang?
I've just spotted a 64 Mustang today at work that was up for sale. I called up the guy and he was asking for $5,800 for it with 68,000 mileage rebuilt engine, 3rd owner, Automatic. I'm seriously considering picking up the car. Since I was at work I couldn't test drive it (I do park field work). My question is, what do I look for in a classic Mustang so I won't get rip off or get a car that has too many issues. What are the pros and cons of the 64's that I should be aware of. I know nothing about American cars (sorry but I was born into the import scene all my life) but want this car. Are the price expensive and are the parts available if anything was to happen? Any concerns I should have? The link belong is the exact same look besides the convertible detail.
http://www.mustangsmustangs.com/ford/stangpics/64-65/65_conv_red_w7_2.jpg
Thanks for the help!
A: I hate to be the one to burst your bubble, but there is no 1964 Mustang, only the 65...the early production (April to Aug 64) are called 64 1/2's.. to tell if it is one, it has to have a engine code of one of these..D,F or U .. that's the last letter before the unit number.. I would shy away from a U code, you can spot them by their 4 lug wheels, they originally came with a 170 ci inline 6, but odds are it's been replace long ago. the problem with them is their small brakes, no good for stopping, so unless you are doing a complete resto rod with new everything don't go there..
and like the others have said, watch out for rust, especially in the subframe assemblies.. also make sure the dataplate on the door matches the vin on the top of the drivers fender...learn how to decode by printing out a vin decoder, there's one in the links of the group below..
Q: where can i find a really cheap 1964 or a 1967 ford mustang?
where can i find a 1964 or a 1967 for mustang coupe.
i would appreiciate it if it was under $5,000
i live in fort myers, florida
links would help
A: Try Ebay or Craigslist, however for 5K you need to be aware that you will likely need to invest several K more in order to get it into a daily driving status. .
Q: what is my 1964 ford mustang worth?
automatic clean no dent execellent shape
A: I saw one sell for $1800 - 6 cyl needing work..from there it goes up..a good running V8 $7000 to $12000 and the convertibles start at $10,000 in restorable condition...
the D code with 4 speed is the most sought after
Q: what is the top speed for a 1964.5 ford mustang?
Engine Type: 4.7 Liter V8
Torque: 300lb-ft
Wheel Base: 108 in.
Transmission: 3-4 Speed automatic
A: it depends on the rear axle ratio, standard 3.00 was 115, but with the optional 2.80:1 could do 120+
Q: how much horsepower does a 1964.5 ford mustang have?
Engine Type: 4.7 Liter V8
Torque: 300lb-ft
Wheel Base: 108 in.
Top Speed: 115 mph
Transmission: 3-4 Speed automatic
A: With the D code 289 4 barrel carb, it has 210 HP & 300 ft lbs of torque..
Q: what is the wheel base size for a 1964.5 ford mustang?
Engine Type: 4.7 Liter V8
Torque: 300lb-ft
A: the 64½, 65, 66 all had the 108" Wheelbase...
Q: With ford mustangs for 1964-1966 how do you identify a GT, a standard(normal), Shelby and any other types?
is it something to do wih the ligths in the front
are there any other types of variations
A: the only sure way to know what you have is to decode the VIN.
http://www.musclecardrive.com/vin-decoders/ford-mustang-vin-decoder.php
http://iml.jou.ufl.edu/projects/students/Blommel/
Q: My dad has a 1964 Ford Galaxie he recently purchased. I have a question about the engine.?
The car does not have it's original engine. The man who sold the car to him said the engine is a 427 out of a Mustang. But my dad thinks it's a 460. We can't find the serial number on the block to tell for sure. We want to know where to locate the numbers. We want to restore the car. Thanks.
My dad is going to replace the engine with an engine from another galaxie. A man wants the buy the current engine if it's a 427. He is restoring a Mustang.
A: a 427 and 460 are easy to tell apart, but the 427, 390 and 352 all look alike, with narrow heads, wide intake and 5 bolt valve covers...
where as the 429/460 have wide heads, narrow intake, and 7 bolt valve covers.
427's never really came in Mustangs, just special ordered Shelbys, from 68 to 70 you could get a 390 or 428, and from 70 -73 a 429, but no 460 was ever offered in a Mustang..
only the Shelbys had serial numbered blocks, all the Mustangs just have casting codes and restorers use these date codes to determine if it's original to the car, so they can be replaced, but have to match the casting code date and line..
1965-1970 Mustang Codes
Code 64-1/2 65 66 67 68 69 70 -A Raven Raven Raven Raven Raven Raven Raven Black ... Transmission Codes ... Engine Codes ...
http://www.vintage-mustang.com/topics/decode/decode.html
Decoding Ford casting part numbers
Ford and Mustang Intake manifold. 4V, 2x4v, 3x2v, Ford Mustang Mercury Tunderbird Galaxie Torino Fairlane Cougar Eliminator Boss Cobra Jet Tunderbolt and Shelby.
http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html
Guide to Decoding Ford Part Numbers - ClassicMustang.com
Those are those big long codes (C7ZZ-6540544-DR, etc) that ... Many Mustang parts were originally designed for the Falcon and carry a Falcon casting number. ...
http://www.classicmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm
The Mustang Shop - How to read Ford casting numbers
TMS - The Mustang Shop! Parts, performance, restoration, service, information ... Casting numbers are those big long codes (C7ZZ-7528-H etc) that you will find on ...
http://www.themustangshop.com/castingnum.cfm
Q: My dad recently purchased a 1964 Ford Galaxie 500. I have a question about the engine.?
The engine is not the original engine. The man that sold the car to my dad said the engine is a 427 out of a Mustang. My dad thinks it's a 460. He is going to replace the engine. Another person is interested in buying the current engine if it is a 427. We can't find the serial number on the block. Where is the serial number located?
A: A genuine 427 engine is very valuable.
First, you must determine if it's an FE series engine (this engine is entirely different from a 460).
More than likely if it came from a Mustang, it's either the 390 or the 428 (427's were never factory optioned in the Mustang.)
Check this site out for further information:
http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange11.html
Q: Classic Ford Mustang Time Commitment?
I've been looking to buy a 1964-1967 Mustang. I see several for sale ads stating that the seller no longer has the time to work on the car. How much time should I expect to "work" on the car? What kind of "work" should I expect to do? Thanks!
To clarify, I am not asking how much time I should expect to work on a specific car. My question is how much should I expect to work on a classic Ford Mustang generally to keep it in good shape. I assume that since multiple sellers are selling because they don't have time to devote to the car, the time commitment would be much more than for my current 2002 model vehicle, which is basically minimal to none. Thanks!
A: Well, it depends on several things:
1.) First, how far do you want to go with the restoration? There is a huge difference in time and money to make a "rough but running" car a "daily driver" vs. a "20-footer" vs. a "true show car." Depending on the model, there's a practical limit to what this car is going to be worth (at each of these restoration tiers) when you're done.
2.) How much rust? If this is surface rust without rot or perforation, a good prep and repaint will do the trick. Pay careful attention to the floorboards (front and rear), the lower lips on the fenders, the lower door edges, the rocker panels and the front and rear fascia under the bumpers. Check underneath, too (exhaust, brake & suspension components & associated mounting points).
3.) Are the engine, transmission and driveline sound? If so, do you intend to keep them stock?
4.) How much work on the inside? Specifically, are the gauges, radio, heater/vent controls, etc. present and working? Glass? Weatherstrips? What needs to be done?
5.) Apart from restoration, how much regular maintenance or mechanical repair needs to be done? Brakes? Wheels/Tires? Craigslist can be your friend for upgraded wheels/tires.
The good news is that, given the popularity of early Mustangs, there are numerous sources for Mustang restoration and performance parts. Start with your local wrecking yard / auto recycler, move on to J C Whitney for general stuff, then to any of the myriad Mustang performance / enthusiast sites on the web.
If you are a decent mechanic and can do paint prep properly, you can cut your costs considerably on a project like this. Years ago, I bought and restored a '63 Falcon (from "rough but running" to "20-footer" status) with my father-in-law. It took 2 years of on-and-off weekend work, lots of trips to the wrecking yard and research in mail-order catalogs and about $3,000, but it was one of the best things we've ever done together.
Good luck!
RESPONSE TO YOUR FOLLOW-UP:
I suspect your sellers are referring to the restoration "work" still to be done, rather than routine maintenance. Following restoration, these cars are really pretty trouble-free. Here's a few thoughts, based on my own experiences (see end of my original post above):
You will need to do oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles (which, BTW, you ought to be doing on your 2002 model as well - check the "harsh conditions" service interval recommendations - you're likely unwittingly driving under "harsh conditions" as defined).
Because you're working with a carbureted / mechanical ignition system on a 64-67, you will need more frequent and extensive tune-ups than with fuel injection and electronic ignition - including periodic adjustment / replacement of plugs, points, condenser and replacement of cap and rotor - every second year or so. You can mitigate this by retrofitting an aftermarket electronic ignition system - many offerings are available for the Mustang.
Some suspension components which are "factory sealed" or not serviceable on newer models have zerk fittings and are meant to be serviced as part of routine oil changes / lubes.
Older transmissions, power steering pumps/boxes, water pumps, alternators, etc. don't really require more service by design, but you should make an effort keep fluids changed and things adjusted in view of the age of these components.
This is the sort of required / preventive maintenance you'd expect with any vehicle of this age, though.
Again, good luck! Sounds like a fun project!
Q: Transporting a Mustang to Alabama!?
Hey, I would like to know how much it would cost to have a 1964 red Ford Mustang from California to Alabama. (any estimate will be accepted) The price for the car is $10,000.
The Mustang has 89,000 miles on it already.
A: ummmmmmm
you should road trip i agree
if you plan to fly it because there is not enough time in the world it would cost prob 1-2 thousand at most and that's pushing it